Tuesday, March 3, 2009

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Vanilla

By John Piano

Ginger, with its tall leafy stems up to 1.2 m (4 ft) high, somewhat resembles a reed. The flower stems are about 25 cm (10 in) tall.

In Europe it was the Greeks who first cultivated the grape and introduced it in the 7th century B.C. to Italy and the territory that is now France. Its cultivation in America dates from the 16th century A.D.

This perennial plant, native to tropical Asia, was known in ancient China and India and is referred to in Sanskrit as `sringavere'. Ginger was shipped from its original home to southern Europe by Arabian merchants before the Christian era. It occurs frequently on the pages of the 3rd-century Roman cookbook 'De re coquinaria' written by Apicius Caelius.

First of all they are scalded briefly with hot water and then submitted to the lengthy process of wilting and drying, during which they turn a dark colour and acquire their characteristic aroma. Good quality vanilla is supple and small crystals of fragrant vanillin are visible on the surface. Vanilla must be stored in an air-tight wrapper or container to preserve its aroma.

In England ginger has been a traditional spice since the 9th century, but Europeans were not acquainted with the plant itself until the late 13th century when it was described at almost the same time by both Marco Polo and Pagolotti. In the 16th century Francisco de Mendoza of Spain began cultivating ginger in Jamaica. Chief producers nowadays are Jamaica, southeast India, tropical west Africa and China.

Ginger is propagated by vegetative means, by cutting the rootstock into pieces and planting these out in light and moisture-retaining soil. It is harvested (ploughed up) 6 to 12 months later - 16035

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Pepper Cubeb

By Matthew Cook

This is a climbing perennial plant native to the islands of Java, Sumatra and Borneo. It is grown on trees which shade plantations of other plants from the tropical sun. Of all the peppers used in cookery this is the most aromatic, which accounts, perhaps, for its lack of popularity in Europe.

The first to know and use long pepper, apart from the natives, were the Persians, followed by the Greeks, who called it `peperl', or rather `peperi makron', meaning large pepper, in order to distinguish it from black pepper. The Romans, who were introduced to it by the ancient Greeks, changed the name paperi to piper and called it Piper longum.

According to old English recipes the leaves may be pickled like capers. They may be used as a delicate flavouring in creamed vegetable soups and in piquant mayonnaises served with meat and fish. When using purslane in cooked foods the finely chopped leaves should be added at the end of cooking to retain their delicate flavour and precious vitamins.

Besides being far more pungent, pepper cubeb is also morphologically different from black pepper and long pepper. Though the fruits (berries) resemble those of black pepper they appear to have long stalks (these stalks arc actually elongated ovaries). They are harvested before they ripen so that the surface becomes wrinkled during the drying process.

Both species of long pepper are very hot, the same as black pepper, and also very aromatic. Their pungency is produced by the alkaloid piperine and the resin they contain, their aroma by a volatile oil, which is why pepper that has been stored for a long period or in an unsuitable container is not aromatic but only hot to the tongue.

For this reason it is recommended to buy peppers whole, not ground, and to grind them just before use. - 16035

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Garden compost

By Scott Edward

If you have taken over a new site and form of drainage is definitely needed, will at least provide an excellent opportunity to get rid of any builder's which you have inherited. Broken lumps of concrete should be used the bottom of drainage pits or trenches. The drainage systems is also useful to take the iorterflow and occasional outlet from a small garden pond.

Many waste materials can go on to the compost heap, from kitchen waste such as lettuce leaves and vegetable peelings to grass cuttings, dead leaves and straw- but diseased plant roots, perennial weeds or woody stems should always be burnt. The successful decomposition of this waste material depends on air, water and the action of bacteria. The bacteria depend on nitrogen for food and the rate of decay can be accelerated by sprinkling the heap with a nitrogenous fertilizer such as sulphate of ammonia or by spreading a layer of farmyard manure over it.

The water table generally rises and fa following wet and dry periods. If it star, at about 900 mm (3 ft) below ground le-. it can he an asset, since water will - available to the deeper plant roots. Ho ever extreme fluctuations in the water tai are a great danger: if it rises in winter: roots of plants are killed through saturatic and if it falls in the summer the pla suffer from drought. On low-lying grout if there is perpetual standing water (usua in winter), this might mean that the war table has risen above ground level and drainage system will relieve it.

A rubble drain is a short-term drainage run, which may be all that is required on a new site to relieve temporary lying water. Dig a trench 300 mm to 450 mm deep, depending on the depth of cultivated soil (since water collects on the comparatively solid pan of undisturbed ground that lies immediately beneath). Fill the hole at least half full with coarse rubble then with a layer of ash or gravel and finally topsoil.

While the application of artificial fertilizers helps to stimulate plant growth it does nothing to improve the physical qualities of the soil. In fact over-application of these materials can cause soil deterioration by destroying bacteria. Soil texture can be improved by the addition of sterilized peat (moist, decomposing plant matter) but this has no mineral or food content at all. The fertility of a soil is an extremely complex balance between its physiology, its humus content and its mineral content (shown by its pH value). Once a gardener understands how each factor in the balance works, he has control over his plot, over what will grow and where. A well drained soil is essential not for successful plant growth but also paths and walls are to he built. It is therefore important to consider the draink your whole plot, not simply with regal the growing areas.

If you have space, a double compost bin allows one heap to decompose thoroughly while another is being started. - 16035

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Morrish Garden in Spain

By Christina Courtney

The Italian Renaissance saw a dramatic development in the whole concept of gardens. In the early fifteenth century, as trade started to flourish again, merchants in the hot city of Florence began to build villas or farms on the surrounding vineyard hills where it was cooler. The earliest Renaissance gardens were at first in the formal, enclosed tradition but gradually a view was allowed into the garden through a hole in the wall. As a natural view became more important the enclosures were swept away and the hillside gardens were allowed to stride down their sites through olive groves and vineyards.

During the sixteenth century the initiative passed to Rome, where the architect Bramante designed a papal garden within the Vatican. This was the forerunner of the High Renaissance style, with a magnificent arrangement of steps and terraces, which became a prototype for everything which followed. From then on gardens became even more ostentatious in design, with terraces at different levels retained by walls and interconnected by grand staircases. Water again became a major feature, as it was in Islamic gardens. It was pressurized and used spectacularly, progressing down an incline or displayed in an elaborate fountain. While these Renaissance gardens were still places for cool retreat, with shade and water of great importance, they were also showplaces where the site and its vegetation were deliberately manipulated. The Italians were really the first to make decorative use of plants, with hedges, for example, used to link the house and garden structurally. The Renaissance movement originating in Italy spread northwards, together with increased knowledge about plants and their cultivation. In France the small formal gardens within the walls of mowed chateaux moved outside, becoming much grander in scope.

The Greeks discovered the delights of Persian culture, including their paradise gardens, when they were waging war in Asia during the third century BC. During the first century BC we also hear of influential Greeks having vegetables planted in their gardens, to furnish their tables. Homer wrote of Alcinous' large walled garden which grew vegetables, including beans, with an orchard of apple, pear and fig trees.

As times became more peaceful throughout Europe the defence walls were lowered, the garden area grew larger and a simple formal design developed.

The central courtyard within a colonnaded peristyle (known as an atrium) became a major feature of the house and was, in effect, the main living area; it still survives today in the cathedral court and cloister. The garden layouts were much on the Greek pattern, architectural and formal and made up of flower beds and paths, pergolas and statuary with fountains and pools for irrigation. Flowers such as the violet, poppy, iris, lily and pansy were popular and, in particular, the rose. Climbing plants were trained up the supporting columns of covered walks and pergolas.

The most intricate designs were simply filled with gravel or coloured earth while more open beds contained flowering plants such as lilies, gilleyflowers, lavender, primroses, marigolds and roses. There were also orchards and vegetable gardens and among the fruit and vegetables mentioned were cherries, apples, pears, wild strawberries, vines, onions, peas, garlic, leeks, lettuces, turnips, radish and spinach. - 16035

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Alpenrose

By Mark Carlson

Alpenrose is a densely branched, evergreen shrub growing to a height of 0.4-1 m. The glowing flowers appear in June and July. The capsules ripen and split at the end of September.

It is a native of western, central and southern Europe, its range extending eastward to Asia Minor and Caucasia in continental Europe. It is found mainly in beech woods, where it grows on stony, calcareous soils or ones rich in humus; in Britain it will grow almost anywhere. Ideal for its growth are the mild winters of the coastal climate and moist air. It tolerates strong shade but bears flowers and fruits only if supplied with adequate light. It is used in parks to form a green carpet in shaded spots where turf will not thrive, and to cover walls and rocks. Propagation is by means of cuttings and seeds.

When planted in gardens both these rhododendrons should be provided with a moist soil rich in humus. The large-flowered and taller species, 2-4 m high, developed by the crossing of American and Chinese rhododendrons, are generally cultivated in parks and gardens.

The fruits ripen in September; they are edible but turn sweet only after the first frost. Inside the pulp is a hard, elongate seed which, when sown, does not germinate until the second year.

This is a warmth-loving species growing mostly in southern Europe and Asia Minor. In central Europe it exists as a relic of the warm period following the Ice Age, growing in warm, mainly limestone situations. It occurs on sunny and rocky banks or in oak stands. It thrives quite well in dry locations but requires lighter soil rich in humus.

It is planted in parks for its early flowers and attractive red fruits. Propagation is by means of seeds, summer cuttings and root suckers. The wood is very hard, with reddish-brown heartwood. - 16035

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Color and Scent of Orchids

By Kate Simunek

If you are growing your orchids indoors you may want to be more selective about the range of colours from your orchid blooms. With such a vast choice of hues and shades, it is possible to arrange your colour schemes to suit any room or personal choice. The following charts will give you some at-a-glance ideas for this.

Orchids that benefit most are lightloving, cool-growing types such as cymbidiums, odontoglossums, coelogynes, encvclias and dendrobiums, all of which have fairly robust foliage that may become a little spotted or marked throughout the course of several months but will not come to any harm. Those orchids with softer, wideleafed foliage, such as lycastes, anguloas and the deciduous calanthes, would very soon become notably spoiled by blemishes as a result of the effects of the weather.

Place pebbles or expanded clay pellets in the base to create your own individual tank effect. You now have a miniature orchid garden to house those tiny plants that would otherwise dry out too rapidly. Place this in a bright spot, but not too close to a window where it may overheat. It is a good idea to place a minimum/maximum thermometer inside the aquarium to assess the temperature range you have created.

During the summer, the aquarium can be left open at the top; close it down only when warmth needs to be conserved. By setting up a horticultural fluorescent light tube above the plants, it is possible to place the aquarium in an unlit corner that would otherwise be unsuitable for growing orchids. This idea can be adapted to a smaller or larger degree.

If you do not stand the plant on a damp base, you will need to remove it for watering and replace it after the pot has drained. The flowers of some orchids can also be highly scented, which adds immeasurably to their overall appeal.

Those orchids termed warm-growing include the shade-loving phalaenopsis and a number of the paphiopedilums. Generally, none of these is suitable for outdoor growing, except in the tropics. The temperatures at night are too cold for much of the summer, and the lush foliage of phalaenopsis will suffer from the elements, causing premature leafloss and the death of the plant in extreme cases. The paphiopedilums are altogether too soft-leafed to cope with outdoor conditions, and it becomes impossible to keep the centre of their growths from filling with water when it rains. In a short time this can result in rot to the centre of the growth.

It blooms during the autumn and is highly fragrant at night. Well-chosen colour combinations can create beautiful effects, as is shown by this display of pale pink Phalaenopsis schilleriana and the deep pink P. Mad Milva. Orchids can be displayed in most rooms in the house.

The pale lemon Phalaenopsis Barbara Moler x Spitzberg looks perfect in a blue bathroom. A Phalaenopsis Mad Milva will do well as the centrepiece of an orchid display, provided it is kept out of direct sunlight. The flowers are delightful with cerise pink petals and sepals, with a darker pink lip. - 16035

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