There was a vogue, some years back, of burning the straw in situ after it had been put down in the summer to keep the berries clean. It was said that the burning did no harm, providing the flame ran down the rows quickly. In fact, it was claimed that the heat would burn the weeds and kill off numerous pests, let alone applying potash automatically to the ground. This burning of the straw is, however, a tremendous waste of organic matter and, furthermore, if it is done immediately after picking, and there should be a sunny hot August and early September, then of course the roots may suffer.
The strawberry growers of the early Victorian days used to take a delight in grubbing large coppices and then to use this land for strawberry growing. It was then, of course, very rich in humus and had a nice soil structure also.
Strawberries, of course, are propagated by means of runners and are not grafted or budded. Because strawberries love organic matter, they react wonderfully to organic fertilizers. One should start by making certain that the soil has a high organic content before it is planted out. Well-rotted farmyard manure or really good compost should be dug in or rotovated in at the rate of one large barrow-load to 10 sq. yards. In cases where dung and compost are not available, Italian Rye Grass may be sown as a green manure at the rate of about an ounce to 10 sq. yards, and when this is 6 inches high or so a good fish manure may be applied all over the top at a rate of 3 oz. to the sq. yard, just before it is dug in. The or the activated rye grass to the soil must be done a month or more ahead of planting so as to allow the land. to settle. Of course, it will help matters if the soil is dry enough for some rolling to be done.
After all, if you get the strawberries growing happily, in open soil rich in organic matter, the leaves of the plants will smother the weeds. It is after the picking is over that a certain amount of hand-weeding may have to be done.
It is most important to take great care in planting, for if the roots are bunched up in any way, they will never `unbtmch' themselves. A good hole should be made with a trowel so that the roots can be allowed to spread out and these must be well down. The crown of the plants must be at soil level and not below or above. The land of course must be absolutely clean and free from perennial weeds. It should be quite level and the top 3 or 4 inches must be free working.
The rows can be 2 feet apart an.d the plants set out 18 inches apart in the rows. Those who allow runners to root in between the rows and so cultivate strawberries on what is called the matted-bed system, often have the rows 3 feet apart, with the plants 15 inches apart in the rows. - 16035
The strawberry growers of the early Victorian days used to take a delight in grubbing large coppices and then to use this land for strawberry growing. It was then, of course, very rich in humus and had a nice soil structure also.
Strawberries, of course, are propagated by means of runners and are not grafted or budded. Because strawberries love organic matter, they react wonderfully to organic fertilizers. One should start by making certain that the soil has a high organic content before it is planted out. Well-rotted farmyard manure or really good compost should be dug in or rotovated in at the rate of one large barrow-load to 10 sq. yards. In cases where dung and compost are not available, Italian Rye Grass may be sown as a green manure at the rate of about an ounce to 10 sq. yards, and when this is 6 inches high or so a good fish manure may be applied all over the top at a rate of 3 oz. to the sq. yard, just before it is dug in. The or the activated rye grass to the soil must be done a month or more ahead of planting so as to allow the land. to settle. Of course, it will help matters if the soil is dry enough for some rolling to be done.
After all, if you get the strawberries growing happily, in open soil rich in organic matter, the leaves of the plants will smother the weeds. It is after the picking is over that a certain amount of hand-weeding may have to be done.
It is most important to take great care in planting, for if the roots are bunched up in any way, they will never `unbtmch' themselves. A good hole should be made with a trowel so that the roots can be allowed to spread out and these must be well down. The crown of the plants must be at soil level and not below or above. The land of course must be absolutely clean and free from perennial weeds. It should be quite level and the top 3 or 4 inches must be free working.
The rows can be 2 feet apart an.d the plants set out 18 inches apart in the rows. Those who allow runners to root in between the rows and so cultivate strawberries on what is called the matted-bed system, often have the rows 3 feet apart, with the plants 15 inches apart in the rows. - 16035
About the Author:
In an old cottage fruit tree garden, every bit of space would be used for growing.
